Watches / EW-002
Fumé Grey Diver
A grey fumé dial that goes near-black at the edge, in a 40mm diver case on a beads-of-rice bracelet.
The dial is the reason this one exists. A fumé finish is bright in the centre and darkens toward the rim, so the watch reads as a different colour depending on how the light hits it — grey indoors, close to black at an angle.
The case came off a donor SKX and was bead-blasted here, which knocks the factory polish off and leaves a flat, even grey that suits the dial better than the original finish did. The hands were relumed by hand so they match the applied indices rather than glowing a different colour.
Because the case was opened, the factory 200m rating no longer describes this watch. It was leak-tested at 3 ATM after reassembly with fresh gaskets, which is enough to say it will survive rain and hand-washing, and not enough to swim in. That distinction is worth being clear about.
Wearing it
47.5mm lug-to-lug on a 40mm case, so it wears close to its size — comfortable from about a 6.5 inch wrist upward. The beads-of-rice bracelet is the reason it sits as well as it does; it articulates far more than a solid-link oyster.
Specification
Case
- Material
- 316L stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40 mm
- Lug to lug
- 47.5 mm
- Thickness
- 12.9 mm
- Lug width
- 20 mm
- Finishing
- Bead-blasted, brushed lug tops
- Bezel
- 120-click unidirectional, black aluminium insert with lume pip
- Caseback
- Screw-down, solid
- Crown
- Screw-down, 4 o'clock
Crystal
- Material
- Sapphire
- Profile
- Flat
- AR coating
- Inner, blue
Movement
- Caliber
- NH36A
- Maker
- Seiko / Time Module
- Type
- Automatic
- Jewels
- 24
- Beat rate
- 21,600 vph
- Power reserve
- 41 h
- Hacking
- Yes
- Hand winding
- Yes
- Complications
- Day-date
- Regulated to
- +4 sec/day across 5 positions
- Factory spec
- Manufacturer tolerance -20/+40 sec/day
Dial & hands
- Dial
- Grey fumé
- Finish
- Sunburst centre falling to near-black at the rim
- Dial maker
- Aftermarket
- Indices
- Applied, polished
- Hands
- Mercedes, relumed in-house
- Lume
- Blue-green lume, BGW9-type
- Lume applied
- Hands relumed in-house; dial lume factory
Strap
- Type
- Bracelet
- Material
- Beads of rice, stainless
- Width
- 20 mm
- Clasp
- Fold-over with push-button release
Parts
Where every component came from. Factory parts, aftermarket parts, and work done here are listed separately.
- Movement
- OEM — Seiko / Time Module NH36A
- Case
- OEM Seiko, bead-blasted in-house
- Dial
- Aftermarket
- Hands
- Aftermarket, relumed in-house
- Bezel
- Aftermarket insert
- Crystal
- Aftermarket sapphire
- Strap
- Aftermarket bracelet
Donor watch: Seiko SKX007 — case, caseback and crown
Interested in this one?
Send a message and I'll tell you where it stands. Questions about the build are welcome — that's what the spec sheet is for.
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