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Watches  /  EW-002

Fumé Grey Diver

A grey fumé dial that goes near-black at the edge, in a 40mm diver case on a beads-of-rice bracelet.

SoldOne of oneBuilt 2026-08

The dial is the reason this one exists. A fumé finish is bright in the centre and darkens toward the rim, so the watch reads as a different colour depending on how the light hits it — grey indoors, close to black at an angle.

The case came off a donor SKX and was bead-blasted here, which knocks the factory polish off and leaves a flat, even grey that suits the dial better than the original finish did. The hands were relumed by hand so they match the applied indices rather than glowing a different colour.

Because the case was opened, the factory 200m rating no longer describes this watch. It was leak-tested at 3 ATM after reassembly with fresh gaskets, which is enough to say it will survive rain and hand-washing, and not enough to swim in. That distinction is worth being clear about.

Wearing it

47.5mm lug-to-lug on a 40mm case, so it wears close to its size — comfortable from about a 6.5 inch wrist upward. The beads-of-rice bracelet is the reason it sits as well as it does; it articulates far more than a solid-link oyster.


Specification

Case

Material
316L stainless steel
Diameter
40 mm
Lug to lug
47.5 mm
Thickness
12.9 mm
Lug width
20 mm
Finishing
Bead-blasted, brushed lug tops
Bezel
120-click unidirectional, black aluminium insert with lume pip
Caseback
Screw-down, solid
Crown
Screw-down, 4 o'clock

Crystal

Material
Sapphire
Profile
Flat
AR coating
Inner, blue

Movement

Caliber
NH36A
Maker
Seiko / Time Module
Type
Automatic
Jewels
24
Beat rate
21,600 vph
Power reserve
41 h
Hacking
Yes
Hand winding
Yes
Complications
Day-date
Regulated to
+4 sec/day across 5 positions
Factory spec
Manufacturer tolerance -20/+40 sec/day

Dial & hands

Dial
Grey fumé
Finish
Sunburst centre falling to near-black at the rim
Dial maker
Aftermarket
Indices
Applied, polished
Hands
Mercedes, relumed in-house
Lume
Blue-green lume, BGW9-type
Lume applied
Hands relumed in-house; dial lume factory

Strap

Type
Bracelet
Material
Beads of rice, stainless
Width
20 mm
Clasp
Fold-over with push-button release

Parts

Where every component came from. Factory parts, aftermarket parts, and work done here are listed separately.

Movement
OEM — Seiko / Time Module NH36A
Case
OEM Seiko, bead-blasted in-house
Dial
Aftermarket
Hands
Aftermarket, relumed in-house
Bezel
Aftermarket insert
Crystal
Aftermarket sapphire
Strap
Aftermarket bracelet

Donor watch: Seiko SKX007 — case, caseback and crown


Interested in this one?

Send a message and I'll tell you where it stands. Questions about the build are welcome — that's what the spec sheet is for.

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